Royal Dress Code

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Aurora Tellenbach

George IV in Royal Tartan by David Wilkie.

As a consequence of the Napoleonic wars, calls for reform were suppressed. When the wars were over, economic depression followed, and the public protests reappeared. In Scotland, the calls for reforms grew into the Radical War with strikes in 1820. By the time George IV finally could enjoy his coronation in 1821, he had already made himself a rather unpopular regent. Arrangements for the first king since Charles I to visit Scotland had been made, but it was now brought forward hoping that his visit would calm down the protests.

It was suggested that king and population should wear tartan for his visit. Sir Walter Scott had through his novels promoted a romantic view of the Scottish Highlands, and made quite an impression on the king. However, after the Battle of Culloden in 1746, the government in London had passed an act against wearing the tartan. As the Dress Act was repealed at the end of the 18th century, Highland aristocrats set up clubs promoting the tartan. Because of the act, many patterns had disappeared and they had to be reinvented.

Sample of the Royal Stewart tartan, worn by George IV in 1822. Scottish Register of Tartans.

The Royal Tartan, portrayed by David Wilkie, was created. It was made by George Hunter & Co. of Edinburgh and was of such exclusive material as satin, velvet and cashmere. The king clearly made an impression, as his visit boosted the popularity of the tartan. Wearing a rather short kilt and flesh-coloured pantaloons to not expose his knees, George IV was also an object of ridicule in various cartoons. But for some the visit was still a treat. As Lady Hamilton-Dalrymple put it: Since he is to be among us for so short a time, the more we see of him the better.

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Apsley House and Wellington Arch Blog
Apsley House and Wellington Arch Blog

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